{"created":"2023-05-15T14:46:26.779755+00:00","id":1385,"links":{},"metadata":{"_buckets":{"deposit":"386eb4a9-75dd-41d0-9512-877926682854"},"_deposit":{"created_by":3,"id":"1385","owners":[3],"pid":{"revision_id":0,"type":"depid","value":"1385"},"status":"published"},"_oai":{"id":"oai:rekihaku.repo.nii.ac.jp:00001385","sets":["21:151"]},"author_link":["3491","3492"],"control_number":"1385","item_10002_biblio_info_7":{"attribute_name":"書誌情報","attribute_value_mlt":[{"bibliographicIssueDates":{"bibliographicIssueDate":"2006-03-25","bibliographicIssueDateType":"Issued"},"bibliographicPageEnd":"99","bibliographicPageStart":"69","bibliographicVolumeNumber":"125","bibliographic_titles":[{"bibliographic_title":"国立歴史民俗博物館研究報告","bibliographic_titleLang":"ja"},{"bibliographic_title":"Bulletin of the National Museum of Japanese History","bibliographic_titleLang":"en"}]}]},"item_10002_description_19":{"attribute_name":"フォーマット","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_description":"application/pdf","subitem_description_type":"Other"}]},"item_10002_description_5":{"attribute_name":"抄録","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_description":"帷子は今日よく知られた服飾のひとつであろう。しかしながら、その基礎的な研究は充分にはなされていない。本稿では、そうした状況を打開すべく、基礎的研究の一環として、室町時代から江戸時代初期にかけての材質の変遷を解明する。\n可能な限り文献を渉猟した結果、以下のような動向が辿られた。\n一五世紀に於ける帷子の材質は、布類、なかでも麻布がごく普通であった。絹物の例も散見されるが、それはあくまで特殊な用例であり、普遍化したものではない。\n一六世紀に入ると、麻布の種類も他の植物繊維の例も増え、布類の種類が豊富になっている。それと同時に、生絹という絹物も見られるようになった。一六世紀の末期ともなると、生絹は広範に普及を見せ、布類と等しいまでの重要な位置を占めている。\n一七世紀初期に於いては、布類については一六世紀末期の状況と大差は認められない。注目されるのは、綾などの絹物や、材質は不明であるが、唐嶋といった生地である。これらは慶長期の半ば頃から登場し始め、帷子の内でも単物として細分されて記録に出てくる。単物は裏を付けずにひとえで仕立てたものである。その材質には、絹物や木綿が見られる。単物は一六世紀後期に明瞭に確立をみせているが、当初は帷子とは分けて記載されており、慶長期中頃に至って帷子の内に組み入れて記載され始める。すなわち、単物というジャンルが、帷子というジャンルに融合をみせていく経過を示すのである。この動向は、絹物である生絹が単物と帷子との間を取り持つ契機として大きな役割を果たし、実現したと推察できる。\nこのように、はじめ布製であった帷子は、やがて絹物でも仕立てられるようになっていった。それは、帷子の独自性を揺り動かす出来事であった。小袖と材質の上でさしたる相違がなくなり、引いては、独立した存在であった帷子が小袖と一元化されるようになるためである。","subitem_description_type":"Abstract"},{"subitem_description":"The katabira is a garment that is commonly known in Japan today. Nonetheless, there has been insufficient basic research on this subject. In redressing this situation, this paper brings to light changes that occurred in the materials used for katabira in the time spanning the Muromachi period through to the early Edo period.\nAn extensive survey of documents has revealed the following trends.\nDuring the 15th century, katabira were made from plant fiber with hemp by far the most commonly used fabric. Although examples of katabira made using silk are to be found, they are special cases and as such do not point to the universal use of silk.\nIn the early 16th century there was an increase in the kinds of hemp and also in examples of other plant fibers, leading to an abundant range of cloths. At the same time, silk katabira made using raw silk came to be seen. By the end of the 16th century raw silk had become widely adopted, occupying an important position that took it to the same level as plant fiber.\nThe beginning of the 17th century saw more or less a continuation of the situation that had existed at the end of the 16th century. Of particular interest are silk katabira with designs and a fabric called Karashima, though the type of material is unknown. These started to appear around the middle of the Keicho period (1596-1615) and they appear in records as a distinctive type of unlined garment known as hitoe-mono. Materials used for these garments were made from silk and cotton. Unlined garments became firmly established in the latter part of the 16th century, and although in the beginning they were recorded in a separate category than that for katabira, by the middle of the Keicho period they began to be included in the same category as katabira. In other words, the genre known as hitoe-mono went through a process where it was amalgamated with the genre known as katabira. We may conclude from this that raw silk played an important role in mediating between hitoe-mono and katabira and achieving their amalgamation.\nAs illustrated by this, katabira were originally made from plant fiber though eventually came to be made from silk, which threatened the uniqueness of the katabira. The result was that there was no longer a significant difference between katabira and kosode in terms of material, and by extension this meant that the katabira, which had once existed separately, was assimilated with kosode.","subitem_description_type":"Abstract"}]},"item_10002_identifier_registration":{"attribute_name":"ID登録","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_identifier_reg_text":"10.15024/00001368","subitem_identifier_reg_type":"JaLC"}]},"item_10002_publisher_8":{"attribute_name":"出版者","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_publisher":"国立歴史民俗博物館","subitem_publisher_language":"ja"}]},"item_10002_relation_17":{"attribute_name":"関連サイト","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_relation_name":[{"subitem_relation_name_text":"第125集 収録論文 タイトルリスト"}],"subitem_relation_type_id":{"subitem_relation_type_id_text":"https://www.rekihaku.ac.jp/outline/publication/ronbun/ronbun5/index.html#no125","subitem_relation_type_select":"URI"}}]},"item_10002_source_id_11":{"attribute_name":"書誌レコードID","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_source_identifier":"AN00377607","subitem_source_identifier_type":"NCID"}]},"item_10002_source_id_9":{"attribute_name":"ISSN","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_source_identifier":"0286-7400","subitem_source_identifier_type":"PISSN"}]},"item_10002_version_type_20":{"attribute_name":"著者版フラグ","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_version_resource":"http://purl.org/coar/version/c_970fb48d4fbd8a85","subitem_version_type":"VoR"}]},"item_creator":{"attribute_name":"著者","attribute_type":"creator","attribute_value_mlt":[{"creatorNames":[{"creatorName":"澤田, 和人","creatorNameLang":"ja"},{"creatorName":"サワダ, カズト","creatorNameLang":"ja-Kana"}],"nameIdentifiers":[{}]},{"creatorNames":[{"creatorName":"Sawada, Kazuto","creatorNameLang":"en"}],"nameIdentifiers":[{}]}]},"item_files":{"attribute_name":"ファイル情報","attribute_type":"file","attribute_value_mlt":[{"accessrole":"open_date","date":[{"dateType":"Available","dateValue":"2016-04-01"}],"displaytype":"detail","filename":"kenkyuhokoku_125_03.pdf","filesize":[{"value":"1.6 MB"}],"format":"application/pdf","licensetype":"license_note","mimetype":"application/pdf","url":{"label":"kenkyuhokoku_125_03.pdf","url":"https://rekihaku.repo.nii.ac.jp/record/1385/files/kenkyuhokoku_125_03.pdf"},"version_id":"ef16b5aa-baa9-4b95-a206-2ba0eb47bd11"}]},"item_language":{"attribute_name":"言語","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_language":"jpn"}]},"item_resource_type":{"attribute_name":"資源タイプ","attribute_value_mlt":[{"resourcetype":"departmental bulletin paper","resourceuri":"http://purl.org/coar/resource_type/c_6501"}]},"item_title":"帷子の基礎的研究 : 室町時代から江戸時代初期に於ける材質の変遷について","item_titles":{"attribute_name":"タイトル","attribute_value_mlt":[{"subitem_title":"帷子の基礎的研究 : 室町時代から江戸時代初期に於ける材質の変遷について","subitem_title_language":"ja"},{"subitem_title":"Basic Research on Katabira : Changes in Materials From the Muromachi Period Through to the Early Edo Period","subitem_title_language":"en"}]},"item_type_id":"10002","owner":"3","path":["151"],"pubdate":{"attribute_name":"PubDate","attribute_value":"2016-04-01"},"publish_date":"2016-04-01","publish_status":"0","recid":"1385","relation_version_is_last":true,"title":["帷子の基礎的研究 : 室町時代から江戸時代初期に於ける材質の変遷について"],"weko_creator_id":"3","weko_shared_id":-1},"updated":"2023-10-17T05:02:57.551546+00:00"}